Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Women's combined

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Women's combined
at the Games of the XXXII Olympiad
Sport climbing pictogram.svg
Olympic sport climbing
VenueAomi Urban Sports Park, Tokyo
Dates4 August 2021 (qualification)
6 August 2021 (final)
Competitors20 from 15 nations
Medalists
1st place, gold medalist(s) Janja Garnbret  Slovenia
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Miho Nonaka  Japan
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Akiyo Noguchi  Japan
Sport climbing at the
2020 Summer Olympics
Climbing pictogram.svg
List of sport climbers
Qualification
Combinedmenwomen

The women's combined event at the 2020 Summer Olympics was a climbing competition combining three disciplines (speed, bouldering, lead). It took place between 4 and 6 August 2021 at the Aomi Urban Sports Park in Tokyo.[1] 20 athletes from 15 nations competed. Sport climbing was one of four new sports added to the Olympic program for 2020.

Qualification[edit]

Main article: Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Qualification

Competition format[edit]

In the qualification round each of the twenty competitors will compete in speed climbing, bouldering and lead climbing. The scores will be multiplied and the 8 competitors with the lowest total scores will proceed to the finals.[2]

In speed climbing, climbers race against each others in pairs on a standardized wall (15m). In the qualification round, climbers have two runs on two different lanes; best times recorded. In the final round, climbers race head-to-head, fastest wins.

In bouldering, climbers need to top boulder problems (set on 4.5m-high wall) within a certain amount of time. In the qualification round, climbers are faced with 4 boulder problems and given 5 minutes on each problem to top them. The final round has 3 boulder problems to top and 4 minutes time limit.

In lead climbing, climbers are given a route (set on 15m-high wall) to top within 6 minutes. If there is a tie, fastest wins.

Route-setting[edit]

Speed climbling wall is standardized: 15 meters tall, 5 degrees overhanging. Bouldering and lead climbing have route-setting teams.

The bouldering route-setters are Percy Bishton (chief) from the United Kingdom, Manuel Hassler from Switzerland, Romain Cabessut from France and Garrett Gregor from the USA.[3][4]

The lead route-setters were Adam Pustelnik (chief) from Poland, Jan Zbranek from Czech Republic, Hiroshi Okano and Akito Matsushima from Japan.[5]

Records[edit]

Prior to this competition, the existing world and Olympic records were as follows.

Speed records
World record  Iuliia Kaplina (RUS) 6.964 Moscow, Russia 21 November 2020
Olympic record Not established – – –

The following records were established during the competition:

Date Round Climber Nation Time Record
August 4 Speed Qualification Aleksandra Mirosław  Poland 6.97[6] OR
August 6 Speed Final Aleksandra Mirosław  Poland 6.84[7] WR|OR

Schedule[edit]

All times are Japan Standard Time (UTC+9)

Date[8] Time Round
Wednesday, 4 August 2021 17:00 Speed Qualification
18:00 Bouldering Qualification
21:10 Lead Qualification
Friday, 6 August 2021 17:30 Speed Final
18:30 Bouldering Final
21:10 Lead Final

Results[edit]

Qualification[edit]

The top 8 climbers of 20 advanced to the finals.

Rank Climber Nation Speed[9] Bouldering[10] Lead[11] Total[12] Notes
A B CP 1 2 3 4 Results CP HR TFT CP
1 Janja Garnbret  Slovenia 9.44 10.32 14 T1z1 T1z1 T1z1 T1z1 4T4z 4 4 1 30 4 56.00 Q
2 Seo Chae-hyun  South Korea 10.01 11.74 17 T3z1 T2z2 z1 z1 2T4z 5 5 5 40+ 1 85.00 Q
3 Miho Nonaka  Japan 7.55 7.74 4 T2z1 z1 z1 – 1T3z 2 3 8 30+ 3 96.00 Q
4 Akiyo Noguchi  Japan 8.27 8.23 9 T2z1 z1 T2z1 T1z1 3T4z 5 4 3 27+ 6 162.00 Q
5 Brooke Raboutou  United States 8.67 8.81 12 T2z1 T1z1 z1 T1z1 3T4z 4 4 2 26+ 3:40 8 192.00 Q
6 Jessica Pilz  Austria 8.51 8.63 11 T3z1 z3 z1 – 1T3z 3 5 9 33+ 2 198.00 Q
7 Aleksandra Mirosław  Poland 6.97 OR 7.01 1 – – – – 0T0z 0 0 20 12 19 380.00 Q
8 Anouck Jaubert  France 7.12 7.29 2 T4z1 – – – 1T1z 4 1 13 16+ 2:14 15 390.00 Q
9 Viktoria Meshkova  ROC 9.54 9.73 15 T6z1 T2z2 z1 z1 2T4z 8 5 6 29+ 5 450.00
10 Shauna Coxsey  Great Britain 9.65 10.07 16 T2z1 T1z1 z1 z1 2T4z 3 4 4 21+ 2:23 13 832.00
11 Kyra Condie  United States 8.12 8.08 7 T4z1 – z1 z3 1T3z 4 5 11 22+ 11 847.00
12 Song Yiling  China 8.74 7.46 3 z5 – – – 0T1z 0 5 19 13+ 18 1026.00
13 Julia Chanourdie  France 8.43 8.17 8 z1 z7 z1 – 0T3z 0 9 15 25+ 9 1080.00
14 Alannah Yip  Canada 8.17 7.99 6 z1 – z1 – 0T2z 0 2 16 21+ 2:14 12 1152.00
15 Laura Rogora  Italy 10.50 Fall 19 z1 z2 T1z1 z1 1T4z 1 5 7 25 10 1330.00
16 Petra Klingler  Switzerland 8.42 8.67 10 T3z1 z3 z4 – 1T3z 3 8 10 16+ 1:49 14 1400.00
17 Iuliia Kaplina  ROC 7.65 Fall 5 z2 – – – 0T1z 0 2 18 14+ 17 1530.00
18 Mia Krampl  Slovenia 10.44 10.43 18 z1 z1 z1 z2 0T4z 0 5 14 26+ 3:16 7 1764.00
19 Oceana Mackenzie  Australia 8.83 9.38 13 T3z1 – z1 – 1T2z 3 2 12 15+ 16 2496.00
20 Erin Sterkenburg  South Africa Fall 11.10 20 z1 – – – 0T1z 0 1 17 7+ 20 6800.00

Final[edit]

Rank Climber Nation Speed[13] Bouldering[14] Lead[15] Total [16]
Quarterfinals Semifinals Finals CP 1 2 3 Results CP HR CP
R T R T R T
1st place, gold medalist(s) Janja Garnbret  Slovenia 3 8.49 6 8.67 10 7.81 5 T4z1 T1z1 z1 2T3z 5 3 1 37+ 1 5
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Miho Nonaka  Japan 4 8.19 8 7.76 11 7.99 3 – z4 z1 0T2z 0 5 3 21 5 45
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Akiyo Noguchi  Japan 2 8.55 7 Fall 11 8.42 4 z5 z2 – 0T2z 0 7 4 29+ 4 64
4 Aleksandra Mirosław  Poland 1 7.49 7 7.03 12 6.84 WR 1 – – – 0T0z 0 0 8 9+ 8 64
5 Brooke Raboutou  United States 4 Fall 6 8.77 9 9.06 7 z5 z3 z2 0T3z 0 10 2 20+ 6 84
6 Anouck Jaubert  France 3 7.40 8 7.51 12 8.84 2 z2 – – 0T1z 0 2 6 13+ 7 84
7 Jessica Pilz  Austria 2 8.89 5 8.77 10 8.43 6 z7 z3 – 0T2z 0 10 5 34+ 3 90
8 Seo Chae-hyun  South Korea 1 10.64 5 12.85 9 9.85 8 – – – 0T0z 0 0 7 35+ 2 112

References[edit]

  1. ^ "Sport Climbing - Olympic Schedule & Results". Olympics. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
  2. ^ "Sport Climbing". Olympics. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
  3. ^ "Interview: Olympic Bouldering Chief Route-Setter Percy Bishton". Climbing. 20 February 2020. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
  4. ^ "Percy Bishton, IFSC Chief Route-setter Bouldering, talks Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 31 July 2021.
  5. ^ "Adam Pustelnik, IFSC Chief Route-setter Lead, talks Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
  6. ^ https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games//en/results/sport-climbing/records.htm
  7. ^ https://www.nbcolympics.com/news/polish-climber-aleksandra-miroslaw-breaks-speed-climbing-world-record-olympic-final
  8. ^ "Sport Climbing - Olympic Schedule & Results | Tokyo 2020". .. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
  9. ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Speed Qualification" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 4 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
  10. ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Bouldering Qualualification" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 4 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
  11. ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Lead Qualification" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 4 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
  12. ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Qualification" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 4 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
  13. ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Speed Final Brackets" (PDF).
  14. ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Bouldering Final Results" (PDF).
  15. ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Lead Final Results" (PDF).
  16. ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Final Results Summary" (PDF).
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